Sunday, March 11, 2012

Encountering the Natives




This week - Intermediate Perfumery, Other People's Parties, and War.








The first time we came across Caron perfumes, I was surprised to find that they still existed.  I gave the link and thought nothing more about it.  My education in perfume has progressed to the point that I now know that I can buy tiny little sample vials online, not only of present-day Caron, but vintage Caron.   And I almost did it.  That would make this "Reading Vintage Vogues -- Accidental Insanity."   I am trying to think how a person in 1959 could do as much damage to her bank account in the middle of the night.  Write a check to a stranger in a bar?

I am going to cheat and give the short descriptions of the present-day versions of these three perfumes from Perfumes - The Guide.  Bellodgia - "lemony germanium." Fleurs de Rocaille - "carnation floral." Nuits de Noel - "marron glace."   Well, that's not too helpful.  They like the Nuits de Noel the best, but it is "ample flesh, but no discernable bone structure."  Still - four stars.  

I am saving more of Chanel v. Shalimar for the coming Shop Hound pages - truly the dog days of Vogue.  But one thing I've learned is perfume is almost alive.  And that the lesser versions - the eau de parfum and the eau de toilette - are mostly worthless.  You have to buy the real thing.  Maybe even the real, real thing that comes from the dregs of a bottle found at an estate sale.  For a lot of money.  And it will be worth it.

Along the same lines, I unexpectedly had a glass, or two, of very, very, very good wine last night.  Something that retails for about $130.  I had no idea anything could taste that good.  I'm a little sorry I found out.  But the good thing about perfume is $130 of perfume lasts a lot longer than $130 of wine.

Let us now visit the world in which no one is shocked if something is good.




Who are these people?



Ladies in floral dresses - let's look at them from left to right:

Mrs. Edward F. Hutton -- E. F. Hutton.  Ring a bell?

This always seemed so barbaric - the obliteration of a woman's name upon marriage.  And confusing.  Which Mrs. Edward F. Hutton is this?   I simply can't recognize faces from photos -- is this the second Mrs. Edward F. Hutton, who was otherwise Authentic Grande Dame Marjorie Merriweather Post?  Or was it the third, much younger,  Mrs. Edward F. Hutton, who had been Dorothy Dear Metzger until she met Mr. Hutton, who was the father of a girlfriend.  Huge scandal.  I'm going to guess this was Mrs. Edward F. Hutton Number Three.

Well, whichever one she was, we know who her husband was.  Here he is:





And here's one of those obnoxious E. F. Hutton commercials from the 1970s:


Next, we have Mrs. James H. Van Alen, (second from left), who apparently never had a first name, as she is never identified as such in the Sotheby's Press Release announcing the sale of her things.  


 I am being tiresome.  And I finally found it in the Notes of Social Activities, October 24, 1929.  It was noted that the former Eleanor Langley and James H. Van Alen had been recently married and were about to begin an around the world wedding trip.  Yes, hella one per cent in 1929.  Mr. James H. Van Alen was devoted to tennis and is credited with inventing the tie breaker in that sport.  Mr. and Mrs. James H. founded the International Tennis Museum in Newport, Rhode Island in the former Newport Casino.

Here is the sporty Mrs. James H. Van Alen with two horses.  Photo is by Steichen - I didn't know that he did society portraits.


It looks much better if you go here and then "full size."  She has an interesting face, very serious and rather boyish.

Well, two down - how many to go?  Next time.

Let's go to the movies!



*   Gregory Peck's earnest portrayal of a particularly inane military action in which ordinary soldiers obeyed cretinous orders the best they could.   Seems to have been made on the cheap, which is a shame because the talent in the cast runs very deep.

*  Besides Gregory Peck:  Harry Guardino, Rip Torn, George Peppard, Woody Strode, Gavin MacLeod, Martin Landau .  . . Harry Dean Stanton and Clarence Williams III have tiny roles.  Robert Blake is very good, but the big surprise is Norman Fell as the guy who should have been on his way home, but the Army screwed up.

*  Interesting non-handling of newly integrated troops and the Japanese-American Lieutenant played by George Shibata, who was the first Japanese-American to graduate from West Point.  A surprisingly intelligent movie.  Bosley Crothers gave it a respectful review, noting it was a good movie to see on Memorial Day Weekend and ended it the way most NYT reviews ended, with a description of what else you'd see at the movies:   

"Appearing in the stage show at the Roxy are The Goofers, comedy musicians; Helen Halpin, singing comedienne; Darryl Stewart, Australian tenor, and the dance team of McKay and Charles."

Ladies and Gentlemen - The Goofers!




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