Saturday, December 3, 2011

On the Second Day of Christmas . . . Eau de Petroleum

the problem:  MEN

the solution: COLOGNE  

So simple?

Let's shop!




Trying to go easy on Mad Men references, but this art direction just screams Sal.




Sorry for the blur.  Annoying.  The typeface was fun, though.  And this is our first look at Vogue blurbage for this issue.

Upper Left:

One of the pleasanter aspects of the jet age, and as popular
now as the propless plane:  a black-tie kind of
lotion called Jet for Jentlemen --
crisp, suave-mannered
(unforjettable?).  The packaging,
crisp too:  black and white, wrapping
a flask-shaped bottle.  By Corday, eight ounces for $6.50.


They weren't kidding about that "J" in "Jentlemen."  This has sunk without a trace.

Upper Right:

Scent that, like
a pipe, could be a man's constant.
Pour Un Homme
(lavender concen-
trate), by Caron.
8 1/2 oz. $10.


I am glad for the hint about the lavender, but I don't think I know anyone who smokes a pipe.  


Goodness, this stuff is still around.   From a British website:






That is one sexy Neanderthal!  

Pour Un Homme is the crown jewel of the High Perfume of the House of Caron; thus it refuses to "succumb to the dictates of fashion and the show of pretense."  Thus, only a Neanderthal model will do.

Ten dollars then for 8 oz.; about $48 for 200 ml on Amazon.  Don't think you can get this at Saks any more.  We had Caron last issue:  Muguet, which I always thought was terribly classy, although I think you could buy it at Rexall.   Pour Un Homme reminds me of Bain de Soleil.  

Lower Left:

Chivlary, not dead at all -- it's present here in a cologne of that 
name, with the fragrance of forest greens (Sherwood Forest, 
perhaps, with Robin Hood reffed up for a rescue).  The bottle,
crested with the Black Knight's shield.  By Chessman: 8 oz., $5. 

Too easy -- Chivalry may not be dead, but this cologne sure is.  So is the company.  Next.

someone dashing

has just passed by, with
a devilish-good scent -
it's Moustache, cologne
for a man with a high
debonaireness-rating.
By Marcel Rochas;
7 1/2 oz., $8.50.

Interesting history of this at Perfume Shrine.  Quoting a review of a presumably modern-day batch:

After the citrusy opening, the characteristic faintly floral and hay-ish powdery heart slowly gives way to the funk of the base notes with their sweaty, urinous and pungent leather impression which lingers quietly, intimately for a long time. Despite it being ,marketed as a masculine scent, women who find citrusy or "hazy" suede compositions to their taste should definitely give it a try. 

I realize they have ruined Chanel No. 5 by taking the filth out of it, but I am still startled by the frankness of the true perfume fanatic.  Moustache was apparently available in 2009; I think it is now defunct.  


 Upper Left:  

The pinch bottle
A Eau de Vetiver,
amed after a 
flowering grass.
The fragrance is
outdoorsy, tweedy,meant for a man
on the same terms.
This after-shaves,
too.  By Carven;
four ounces, $7.50.

A memorable line of verbiage in the last issue:  He drives, she umbrellas.  It after-shaves.  
It appears that versions of Vetiver is still around.  Carven is or was a French firm acquired by a conglomerate in 2003.  Meh.

Upper Right:

I can't stand any more verbatim Vogue blurbage.  One gets the picture.  Just the highlights for a while.

Dana Canoe.  First, it's supposed to be "can - u - ay."  Did you know that?  Second, the price has plummeted.   In 1959, 8 something ounces for $8.50.  Adjusted for inflation, this should be about $66.00.  Found online for about $15.   

Lower Left:

Knize Ten - the ten is "the handicap of a crack polo player."  Pretty pitiful if you have to explain that to a reader of Vogue.

I know someone who can play polo.  Finally some VoguePoints.  I belong. 

Knize -- wow.  (Go here for the company site that for some reason alludes to Knize Ten, but doesn't sell it.)   Still here and holding up.  I know nothing of men's scents.  I've never even considered buying scent for a man.  I have vaguely heard of this, but was expecting it to have slid down the scale to Target or oblivion along with the others.  No.  It inspires passion in the manly bosoms of online reviewers:  one says it smells like a car repair shop -- for Ferraris.  Another says it smells like a high quality tire.  Someone else:  old petroleum.  And men love it.  

A small bottle sells now for $70.00, which is about what it sold for then (adjusted).  

Knize Ten was inspired or helped along in some fashion I am not sure of by Ernst Deutsch-Dryden- artist, exile, costume designer (?) -- of Paris, Vienna, Los Angeles.  


This Bugatti poster - or postage stamp - is from a year after the birth of Knize Ten.  I suppose this is why it doesn't smell like horses.  

Bottom Right:  Aphrodisia by Faberge.   Launched in 1938.  Gone.  Doesn't seem like a cologne for men.  

Well, that ends Part One.  Let's take a break.

Let's go to the movies!



*   Mothers, daughters.  Black, white.  Rich, poor.  Tragedy, triumph, tragedy.  


*   One big, blowsy movie!  Sandra Dee was quite decent; thus the disappointment in Gidget.
Juanita Moore -- ah.  Every scene excruciating.  How did she make herself do it?  She was an actual human being in Suddenly Last Summer - nympho bitch cat-fighting with drunken bitch in madhouse -- small role.  Lana Turner was Lana Turner.


*  Half this movie was a reasonably enjoyable Sirk extravaganza.  The other half was The Help of its day -- although unfair to The Help.  But similar jerking around of audience emotion.    Similar self-congratulatory tone.  Why couldn't they make Juanita Moore a real human being?   But -- watchable in an avert-your-eyes way.  If that makes sense.

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